The Backpacker's Guide to Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxaca is a vibrant and colorful cultural hub in Mexico, loaded with hidden gems. It's a dream destination for those looking for history, handmade gifts, Instagram-worthy photos, world-class cuisine, and a lively nightlife with the option to escape to the mountains for some variety. The city felt safe, especially compared to other parts of Mexico. I walked around alone at night and never felt uneasy. The streets were lively and full of people, which added to the sense of security.
What I Did
Early morning runs
Every morning at 7 a.m., I’d run to explore the city and discover hidden gems that Google Maps doesn’t have marked. It’s how I find local spots, like signless food carts with lines of locals fueling up before work, while avoiding overpriced tourist traps. I don’t follow a set route, just green traffic lights and the flow of people. In Oaxaca, I was surprised by how few people I saw, either I strayed too far, or it wasn’t a city of early risers. The streets were empty, but it was cool to have the street art to myself, dictating my route.
Walking tour (DIY-style)
There are two types of people in this world: those who enjoy guided walking tours and those who don’t. I really wish I were the first type, but unfortunately, I’m the latter. City tours often take several hours, filled with rich history and insights from an educated local guide, yet I rarely seem to retain much. I’ve done over 20 walking tours, and I can’t remember a thing from any of them, so I started putting together my own walking tours.
While I might miss out on hidden gems or deeper context, I love the freedom of exploring at my own pace. I’ll research the core spots to visit—landmarks, churches, squares, museums—mark them on a map, read up on each one, and then choose a starting point. It’s all on my timeline, and I find it much easier to remember the details I’ve read beforehand.
Here are the stops on my self-guided walking in Oaxaca (pinned in the map at the bottom of the post):
Andador Turístico (street lined with shops and galleries)
Zócalo (main square)
Oaxaca Cathedral (Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción)
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán (Colonial-era church)
Mercado 20 de Noviembre (market with traditional Oaxacan food)
I sat down at a stall in the market and had my first mole!
Mercado de Artesanías (handcrafted Oaxacan goods)
Coffee shops
I chose Oaxaca for its remote work-friendly environment, great food, culture, and vibrant nightlife—everything I wanted from a city without the need for full-day excursions. On meeting-heavy days, I worked from my room, but mostly I went to coffee shops, many with rooftop terraces or courtyards. Café Brújula Alcalá was my favorite, thanks to its shaded courtyard. Coffee shops were a great way to meet people. Since I wasn’t staying in hostels, my social interactions were limited, but it was nice to chat with those around me. Some were also digital nomads, while many were locals.
Mezcal tasting at a local mezcalería
Even if you're not a fan of mezcal, you should still visit a mezcalería and give it a try. It's a key part of Oaxacan culture and a fun experience. My palate usually only allows me to categorize tastings as "yes, I like it" or "no, I don’t," and this was no different. However, my bartender was fantastic at using my simple feedback to curate a selection based on my preferences. I enjoyed all three of her choices.
Temazcal ceremony (story to come on Sunday)
A temazcal is a traditional sweat lodge, think spiritual sauna. I had never heard of it before, but it’s centered around spiritual healing. It’s nowhere near as intense as something like ayahuasca, but it shares a similar intention: turning inward, moving energy, and healing the mind and body.
I loved this experience, but I’m also the kind of person who would. I’d only recommend it to people who are open and willing. It’s uncomfortable, intimate, emotionally taxing, and very different from what we’re used to in the Western world. If you’re just looking to relax and sweat a little, skip this. Go to a spa or for a run instead.
Cooking class in the countryside
This was the highlight of my entire time in Oaxaca. I splurged on a $100 USD four-course cooking class where we made tamales, tostadas, mole negro, and mole verde. The class was held in our host’s mother’s beautiful garden, and he offered over fifty varieties of mezcal to try. I even tasted chapulines (grasshoppers) and liked them enough to use as a salty, crunchy topping on my dishes.
We were a group of about twenty, and the experience was well-paced and hands-on without too much waiting around. They get an A+ for classroom management.
I want to tell you it was one of the best things I’ve ever had, but I think my time in Oaxaca confirmed that mole just isn’t for me. I’m sure this was some of the best mole out there, but I didn’t love these or any of the others I tried. I guess I’m just not a mole girly. That said, I had a great time making it, and so many people consider it their favorite dish, so I still highly recommend giving it a try.
Day trip
I booked a tour to avoid dealing with logistics, but this is definitely something you could do on your own by renting a car.
We spent the day exploring some of Oaxaca’s cultural and natural highlights, starting with Hierve el Agua, a site known for its petrified waterfalls and mineral-rich pools that were once sacred to the Zapotecs. We did a short hike and then had free time to wade in the pools and relax. The weather was beautiful, and the views were stunning. It’s a perfect spot for easy, Instagram-worthy photos.
Next, we visited Teotitlán del Valle, where we learned about the ancestral craft of rug weaving using wool and natural dyes. We were guided through the full process from turning raw wool into yarn, to dyeing it with plants and insects, to weaving it into intricate patterns. It’s always fascinating to watch, and this village is a great place to find high-quality, handmade textiles.
We ended the day at Riquezas De Oaxaca, Casa Mezcalera, where we explored the handcrafted process of making mezcal. This was actually my favorite stop. We got to see how the agave is roasted in underground pits, crushed (often by a stone wheel pulled by a mule), fermented in wooden vats, and then distilled in copper or clay stills. Tasting the roasted agave was a highlight. To taste it, you would chew on the bark like you would sugarcane and it was surprisingly sweet like molasses.
While I thought Hierve el Agua was unique, stunning, and absolutely worth seeing, it wasn’t the part of Oaxaca that made me fall in love with the area. I’d still highly recommend it if you have the time, but if your trip is short, I’d skip it in favor of exploring the culture in town. For me, the heart of Oaxaca is in its streets: eating local food, wandering through markets, joining a cooking class, and just getting lost in the city.
What I Didn’t Do (But Wish I Had)
Ocotlán Market
Oaxaca is home to countless markets, and one that comes highly recommended by both locals and travelers is the Ocotlán Market, about an hour outside the city. I didn’t have time to visit since it’s only open on Friday and I was working, but if you're planning a trip, it’s definitely worth adding to your list.
Day of the Dead
I didn’t plan far enough ahead to be in Oaxaca for Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), but locals showed me videos, and it looks absolutely unreal. Picture vibrant colors, flowers everywhere, music, dancing, parades, dramatic makeup and an atmosphere filled with joy. It’s a deeply cultural celebration, and if you can, I highly recommend timing your trip around it. There’s no better way to experience the heart of Mexican culture than by being part of this one-of-a-kind celebration.
Explore Oaxaca (outside of the city)
Oaxaca is home to many small towns beyond the city, and while I didn’t make it out there, I wish I’d had the chance to explore more of the indigenous villages in the mountains.
In addition to the mountains, Oaxaca has beautiful beaches and coastal towns. I would have loved to spend time in Bahías de Huatulco or Puerto Escondido. Both offer a variety of beaches and would be great additions to round out the trip itinerary.
What to Eat
Tlayuda – Do not skip this! I didn’t expect a glorified quesadilla to blow me away, but I was so wrong. Tlayudas are crispy, oversized tortillas served with meat, cheese, and sauces. They’re cheap, fun, and absolutely delicious. I’m not sure there’s a right way to eat one, but I was told to rip off a piece of tortilla, tear some meat, and dunk it in the sauces.
Tlayudas Las Ánimas - This place was fantastic, but you can also pick one up in the markets.
Quesillo (Oaxacan Cheese) – It reminded me of a firmer, stringy mozzarella and is probably in your tlayuda, but if you skip that, try grabbing some at a grocery store just to taste it.
Mole – Oaxaca is famous for its seven moles, so you’ve got to try at least one while you’re there! I’d recommend prioritizing the mole negro because it’s rich, complex, and uniquely Oaxacan. Personally, I preferred the mole verde. It had a lighter taste and featured flavors I was more familiar and comfortable with.
Chapulines (grasshoppers) – Close your eyes, pop one in your mouth, and don’t overthink it. They’re a common snack and a fun topper for foods like tacos or guacamole. It’s worth trying at least once even if it’s only for bragging rights that you were brave enough to eat an insect.
Tips & Tricks
Sip your mezcal – Don't shoot it! Even though it might be served in a glass that looks like a shot glass, you'll be the laughing stock of the bar if you throw it back. Instead, swirl the mezcal in the cup, smell it, then take a tiny sip. Let it sit on your palate, swish it around, and then swallow.
Street food is safe (and amazing) but don’t drink the tap water and be mindful of eating vegetables that may have been washed in it. Ice will get you sometimes too. Don’t get a bottle of water and pour it over ice unless you know the ice was from a filtered source.
Local guides are often required – Exploring indigenous lands, like Hierve el Agua, requires a local guide. If you're with a tour group, they'll typically handle the guide fee for you. But if you're going on your own, be prepared to pay a local guide at the entrance. They’re usually standing there and may accompany you on your adventure. It might feel weird, but it’s not a scam. It’s a standard requirement for anyone who isn’t from the community and wants to explore the area.
Get around with DiDi or taxis – If you're tired of walking, you can flag down a yellow taxi like the old days or use the DiDi app. I've done both, but I prefer ride shares because it's easier and you don’t have to haggle over the price.
Map of Featured Spots
Such a great read! I’m hoping to make it out to Oaxaca soon!